Wild Sarawak
- Helen Bateman
- Jul 13
- 4 min read
A little scream from up ahead disturbs the quiet, as a black and yellow tail slithers into the undergrowth. It’s pitch black, except for our head torches and we have a nervous giggle, there’s something about a night walk that heightens the senses. We’ve dodged fire ants and scorpions, found frogs who bark like dogs, geckos, and bright green rat snakes. We are on a two-day trek in the heart of Borneo’s rainforest.
Just a few hours earlier the jungle trail opened out to our base for the night. Camp 5 is set at the foot of an imposing karst rock face within Mulu National Park. We jumped, fully clothed into the river, feeling pleased with ourselves after our long, hot trek. We’d pushed our boats through shallow water, clambered over tree roots, and crossed cable bridges that were straight from an Indiana Jones movie. This was the halfway point of a 21km trek from Park HQ to Limbang, following the infamous Headhunters Trail.
My friend Hazel & I joined Intrepid’s 10-day Wild Sarawak tour. Intrepid put together experience-filled adventures with local leaders. They gave this trip a ‘physical rating’ of 4 / 5, indicating a higher level of challenge. It was very hot and humid; we carried at least 2.5 litres of water on our hikes. For the Headhunters Trail we carried our overnight kit, approximately 10kg depending on how light you can pack. It would appeal to anyone who loves wildlife and wild places – this is off-the-beaten track at its best.
The accommodation was a great mix. An eco-hotel in Kuching had a craft shop and a rooftop bar with the best smoothies. The open-sided communal sleeping at Camp 5 might not have been the most restful experience, but it was certainly an experience we’ll all talk about. The dorms at Mulu Park HQ were described as basic, but in reality the large wooden cabins with verandas looking out over pristine jungle and boardwalks were just the perfect escape.
You'll want to try the famous Sarawak laksa – a spicy noodle soup, with shrimp paste, chicken, and prawns, often served for breakfast, Also nasi goreng and mee goreng, these are fried rice or noodle dishes with soy, garlic, sambal, veggies. We loved the midin, a crunchy wild jungle fern stir fired with garlic and shrimp paste. For vegetarians (like me), ask for your meal to be prepared without the shrimp paste.
Our tour traversed the north-west of Malaysian Borneo, Sarawak. The region has fewer visitors than other parts of southeast Asia which makes it a perfect destination for adventure lovers. Home to more than 200 mammals, 44 endemic to Borneo. We encountered the large-nosed, super-shy proboscis monkey, flying lemurs and bearded pigs in Bako and watched in amazed silence as a large semi-wild orangutan swung across Semenggoh Nature Reserve.
As we explore the national parks, I realise I’m literally in a David Attenborough documentary. One evening, after exploring the immense Deer & Lang Caves, we sit down to wait for the night-time entertainment. At some point we hear a murmur of activity, followed by a swirling ribbon of what looks like smoke. It’s the start of a near continuous flow of millions of bats. They spiral out of the cave to confuse the awaiting bat hawks and raptors. I have never seen anything like this and it’s hard to explain how amazing it was, a real unexpected highlight for me.
We bookended our tour with a two nights at the Kuala Lumpur Journal, with time to explore the big city and catch up on some sleep after our flight (13 hours direct from London). Be sure to check out the Batu Caves with its colourful steps, giant statues, and many monkeys.
My top tip for any adventure tour is to treat yourself to a little luxury at the end – you’ll appreciate it even more. We stayed at Gayana Marine Resort on Gaya Island, just a 20-minute ferry ride from Kota Kinabalu. We learned about their conservation efforts with giant clams and planted coral, as well enjoying a cocktail by the pool and paddle boarding in the bay – what a way to end our tour.
Our leader Nik was brilliant, with her endless energy and knowledge of the flora and fauna and her no-nonsense approach to jungle trekking. She even arranged a homemade cake for my friend’s birthday in the jungle. I will definitely return to Borneo to do Intrepid’s Sabah Adventure, I’d love to hike up Southeast Asia’s highest mountain, Kota Kinabalu and search for pygmy elephants and wild orangutans in Sabah. The appeal of exploring such a wild and remote place, the unique wildlife and beauty of tropical Borneo make it an easy place to recommend.
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